Structured or soft: which silhouette suits you

Two bags in the same leather can behave nothing like each other. The difference is structure.

Structured bags

A structured bag has a rigid base, firm sides and usually a lining that supports the shape. It keeps its lines whether it is full or empty and looks composed on a desk or at a dinner table.

Best for: work days, formal settings, people who like to see everything at a glance. Watch for: corners can show wear first, and the bag carries its own weight before you put anything inside.

Examples from the atelier: the Soleil Satchel and the Siena Tote.

Soft bags

A soft bag is cut with a lighter hand: unlined or thinly lined leather that slouches and drapes. It moulds to the body and gets better-looking as it softens.

Best for: travel, long walking days, casual outfits. Watch for: it can lose its shape if overloaded, so choose a reinforced strap.

Examples: the Palma Bucket and the Lune Crossbody.

The in-between

Some bags are structured at the base and soft at the top, a mix that many people find ideal. Look at how the sides behave when the bag is half full.

A quick test

1. Place the bag on a table, empty. Does it stand?
2. Hold it by the handle. Does it keep its lines or sag?
3. Wear it with your most-worn coat. Does the shape sit comfortably against the fabric?

If the bag stands tall and you like that look, go structured. If you want ease and movement, go soft. Many people end up owning one of each, and that is exactly what a capsule wardrobe is for.