A plain guide to leather types

Leather names can sound like jargon. Here is what the common ones mean in practice.

Calfskin

Fine-grained hide from young cattle. It is strong, smooth and takes colour deeply. Smooth calfskin looks sleek but shows scratches; grained or pebbled calfskin has a surface texture that hides them. Most structured bags are calfskin.

Nappa

A very soft, full-grain leather, usually from lamb or calf, tanned to feel buttery. It drapes beautifully but needs a little more gentle handling, so it is a favourite for crossbodies and clutches.

Saffiano

Leather pressed with a fine cross-hatch pattern and sealed with a coating. It is among the most practical finishes: resistant to scratches and water spots, and easy to wipe clean. It is also stiff, which is why it suits boxy shapes.

Suede

The inner side of the hide, brushed to a velvet nap. It is lovely against the skin and often used for linings. As an outer material it demands care around water and oils.

Embossed leather

Calfskin stamped with a pattern, for example a croc print, to look like exotic skins. You get the drama without using rare materials, and the pattern is forgiving.

Vegetable-tanned leather

This describes how the hide is tanned, using plant tannins rather than chromium salts. It develops a rich patina and smells like leather should. It can darken with sun and handling, which many people consider a feature.

How to judge quality in a shop

• The edges should be smooth and painted, not rough or cracked.
• The stitches should be even and tight, with no loose threads.
• The hardware should feel weighty and the zips glide.
• The leather should smell of leather, not chemicals.

The best leather is the one that suits how you live, and the right care will do the rest.